Saturday, July 23, 2011

Ken and Judy in the Mountains: Cruising Town

If you spend any time in the small mountain towns of the Blue Ridge, you know how it feels like a step back in history to a simpler, slower time.  For us, that feeling was definitely evoked by a visit to the recently restored Ashe County Courthouse in Jefferson, NC.  In use for nearly a century since it was built in 1904, it now has a second life as a museum.

Among its many unique displays is this piece by an Ashe County artisan, constructed from some 40 different types of wood.  It has been on exhibit at the Smithsonian Institute, and now has a new home.  Impressive.  But doesn't match our country/yard sale decor.

Our favorite exhibit was a miniature model depicting daily life in the old mountain railroad communities of the 20's, 30's, 40's, and 50's.  The approach to this exhibit was that as you move from left to right you are following the path of the Norfolk & Western railroad through its various whistlestops.

The stretch of the railroad from SW Virginia into NW North Carolina was long known as the Virginia Creeper line.  Judy and I have long-range plans to bike the Virginia Creeper Rails-to-Trails one day, a leisurely downhill ride from Whitetop to Damascus, VA.

The most endearing thing about the display was how the craftsmen (who are still continuing the project) injected historical and personal minutiae into their labor.  For instance, in this cemetery all the tombstones have names of these craftsmen.  We noted boys tipping over an outhouse and a famous artist with easel set up beside the New River and the railroad tracks.  These and many more details were based on local anecdotes.  We plan to return and study this some more. 

The wonderful tourguide was passionate about her work and would have stayed after hours to finish showing us everything, but we declined.  Exiting, we admired nearby Mount Jefferson, which we would explore the next day.  Our guide, who said she thought she could see someone at the top, told us to wave at her when we got there.

Also in Jefferson, we found a nice park with shady gazebo . . .

and a modest walking trail. 
Babbling stream included at no extra charge.

Now back to West Jefferson, just a couple of miles away.  The rest of this post features the wonderful art -- indoor paintings and outdoor murals -- which adorned this town.

This is not a real train.  It's a mural at the site of the old depot, with the Blue Ridge in the background.

This mural shows the entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway at Deep Gap (home of Doc Watson), where Hwy. 421 passes under the trademark stone bridge.

Now this sight may not be historic, but it sure was interesting to me.  It turns out Dr. Enuf really was the original "energy drink," dating back to 1949.
This link http://noumenon.roderickrussell.com/dr-enuf-the-original-energy-booster will fascinate you if you have time to pursue it.  I particularly liked how the founder bought a full backpage newspaper ad, then paid carriers to fold the papers backward so that fake headlines touting his product were the first thing readers would see.  Much more cool trivia.


An old factory in West Jefferson has been converted into a menagerie of small shops, a perfect venue for many mountain artists, renowned or obscure, to share their craft.  This is someone's interpretation of their small town.

Apparaently some local train lover has agreed to share his collection.  This is just a small portion of it.

Coal mining is part of the historic tale of the mountains, from fact, to folklore, to art and song.  This brought to mind one of my favorite songs, "Dark as a Dungeon."

A depiction of early settlers crossing the gaps in these mountains.  I know the wagon looks warped or out-of-proportion, but this is a famed Conestoga wagon, designed so the contents would not slide on steep uphill or downhill treks.  It could even be floated across daunting rivers with its wheels removed.

We saw this and other quilt designs on barns throughout the region and learned it had been a project a few years ago. 

We're back outside now.  If not for the car in the photo, you could easily think this one was another inside shot.  The themes are unity and diversity.  Music, dance, and community spirit are highlighted-- the heart of mountain communities.  I love how the roots of the tree become enormous hands which gently cradle the children-- the future.

One obligatory note of humor before we leave West Jefferson.  Their back street is named simply "Backstreet."  Not Backstreet Street.  How cool is that.  I could live in a town with a sense of humor like this.

For now, I'll do as the sign says: STOP.  If you don't especially care for all these town scenes, I've got good news.  In my upcoming blogs we'll visit Mount Jefferson, sights on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and much more.  Check back soon.

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